Decolonizing our tongues & celebrating Juneteenth through food w/ Dr. Sunyatta Amen | #TheBlackTable
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Summary
Takeaways
- ❖Juneteenth is part of a broader constellation of emancipation celebrations across the African diaspora.
- ❖Food is pivotal in all human rituals, especially for people of African descent, representing a connection to nature and a revolutionary act of personal power.
- ❖Red is a significant ancestral color in many West African traditions, symbolizing ancestral connection and power through blood.
- ❖Hibiscus-based red drinks (bissap, sorrel, karkade, agua fresca de Jamaica) are found across Africa, the Caribbean, and the Americas, marking an 'indelible thumbprint' of African presence and resistance.
- ❖Commercial enterprises deliberately market red-colored foods and drinks to Black communities, often devoid of traditional health benefits, exploiting cultural affinity.
- ❖Reclaiming traditional recipes and making healthier food choices is a revolutionary act of self-preservation and intrinsic to joy and well-being.
Insights
1Juneteenth's Historical Context and Diasporic Connection
Juneteenth, celebrated on June 19, 1865, when Major General Gordon Granger declared the end of enslavement in Galveston, Texas, is not an isolated event but part of a larger network of emancipation celebrations across the African diaspora. These celebrations, including those in the Caribbean in August and January 1st after the Emancipation Proclamation, collectively signify the long freedom struggle of African people.
Host Greg Carr details the arrival of Major General Gordon Granger in Galveston Bay on June 19, 1865, issuing General Order Number 3, and the subsequent first Juneteenth celebration in 1866. He connects it to Caribbean emancipation days in August and January 1st celebrations after 1863, and mentions Jack Yates, a formerly enslaved African who founded Emancipation Park in Houston in 1872.
2Food as a Revolutionary Act and Cultural Custodian
For people of African descent, food is not merely sustenance but a profound cultural custodian and a revolutionary act. During the transatlantic slave trade and subsequent enslavement, the knowledge of herbal medicine and traditional foods provided a vital connection to home and a means of resistance. Controlling what one eats or does not eat becomes an act of personal power, especially when other freedoms are denied.
Dr. Sunyatta Amen, a fifth-generation herbalist and descendant of Maroons, explains that food connects mind, body, and spirit to essence. She states, 'one thing that you can't really control is food. People decide they're not going to eat... It is something you can control as an individual. So, one of one of the ways that we take personal power... is the control of what we eat or do not eat. And that is a revolutionary act.'
3The Significance of Red Foods and Hibiscus in the Diaspora
Red is an ancestrally significant color in many West African traditions, symbolizing connection and power through blood. This symbolism extends to red foods and drinks, particularly those made from hibiscus, which are found across the African diaspora under various names like bissap (Senegambia), sorrel (Caribbean), roselle (Horn of Africa), karkade (Egypt), and agua fresca de Jamaica (Central America). These drinks are associated with cooling, healing, and survival in harsh conditions.
Dr. Amen details how red symbolizes ancestral connection and power. She lists various names for hibiscus-based drinks across the diaspora, stating, 'wherever you see that hibiscus plant... you're seeing Africa. It's the thumbprint... of capitalism, imperialism, enslavement, and resistance.' She also notes its medicinal properties as a vasodilator and coolant.
4Commercial Exploitation of Cultural Food Symbols
Corporations have historically and continue to exploit the cultural affinity of Black communities for certain foods and colors, particularly red. By marketing red-colored candies, sodas (like Kool-Aid, often referred to simply as 'red' flavor), and other products, these companies capitalize on deep-seated cultural connections without offering the traditional health benefits, often introducing unhealthy alternatives.
Dr. Amen highlights how commercial enterprises recognized the 'love for these things' and began coloring products red, from candies to sodas. She points out that products are often described as 'red flavored' rather than by actual fruit flavors, demonstrating a deliberate marketing strategy. Host Greg Carr recalls Manning Marable's work on how soft drink companies deliberately marketed colors like red and purple to Black consumers.
5Health as a Revolutionary Act and Call to Action
In the face of historical oppression and modern commercial exploitation, reclaiming traditional recipes and prioritizing good health becomes a revolutionary act. Making healthier versions of beloved foods, focusing on fresh ingredients, and supporting Black-owned businesses that uphold these traditions are crucial steps for self-preservation and enhancing community well-being.
Dr. Amen states, 'Good health is not only your birthright, but it is also a revolutionary act.' She advises reclaiming recipes, making healthier versions, and not overcooking foods. She also encourages supporting Black chefs and entrepreneurs who are returning healthier, traditional versions of foods to the community.
Bottom Line
The historical villainization of 'hand foods' like watermelon and chicken was a deliberate attempt to declass Black culinary practices, pushing away from traditional eating styles that are common globally.
This insight reveals how cultural practices were weaponized to enforce perceived social hierarchies, impacting self-perception and food choices within the Black community.
Reclaiming the joy and cultural significance of eating foods with hands, as is traditional in many African and diasporic cultures, can be a powerful act of decolonizing food practices and fostering cultural pride.
The naming of 'agua fresca de Jamaica' in Central America for hibiscus tea reflects Jamaica's historical role as a major landing point for hibiscus and other herbs, linking it directly to the island's strong Maroon traditions and mastery of herbal medicine.
This specific linguistic and historical connection highlights the profound and often overlooked influence of Jamaican Maroon culture on broader diasporic foodways and herbal knowledge, demonstrating a continuous thread of resistance and cultural preservation.
Further research and promotion of the historical routes and cultural exchanges of specific plants and culinary practices can deepen understanding of diasporic connections and foster cross-cultural appreciation.
Opportunities
Develop and market healthier, traditionally-rooted red drinks and foods for Juneteenth.
Create hibiscus-based teas, sorbets, and other red-colored products that are both culturally authentic and health-conscious, offering alternatives to commercially exploited, sugar-laden options. This would directly counter the 'Juneteenth ice cream dust-up' and similar commercial missteps.
Curate and promote 'heirloom' African diasporic food ingredients and recipes.
Establish a platform or business focused on sourcing, educating about, and distributing traditional ingredients (like specific grits, spices, or plants) that have cultural significance, allowing communities to reclaim and prepare authentic, healthy dishes.
Lessons
- Reclaim traditional recipes and ingredients for Juneteenth celebrations, focusing on healthier, fresh versions of dishes like red rice, strawberry pie, and watermelon.
- Actively seek out and consume authentic hibiscus-based drinks (like sorrel or karkade) as a cultural and health-conscious alternative to commercially dyed red sodas and candies.
- Support Black chefs and entrepreneurs who are creating and sharing culturally authentic, healthy food options, helping to preserve and extend these traditions within the community.
Notable Moments
Dr. Sunyatta Amen's childhood experience as 'the golden seal girl' in her parents' health food store, where her fingertips were often stained yellow or red from bagging herbs like turmeric and ginger.
This anecdote vividly illustrates her deep, lifelong immersion in herbal medicine and traditional health practices, grounding her expertise in lived experience and family heritage.
The host and Dr. Amen discussing the Kool-Aid Man character, noting his 'no manners' persona and Louis Armstrong-like voice, and realizing the underlying cultural stereotypes embedded in the marketing.
This moment exposes the subtle yet pervasive ways commercial advertising has historically perpetuated stereotypes while exploiting cultural affinities, highlighting the need for critical awareness regarding marketed products.
Quotes
"Juneteenth is folded into a constellation of emancipation day celebrations around the hemisphere."
"I am a fifth-generation herbalist and the descendant of Maroons... I believe that that kind of puts me in like this really awkward, strange space of being a cultural custodian."
"Everything you can do to a person, you can try to control a person, but one thing that you can't really control is food. People decide they're not going to eat... It is something you can control as an individual. So, one of one of the ways that we take personal power... is the control of what we eat or do not eat. And that is a revolutionary act for better or worse."
"Red is a significant ancestral color for us. In many of our West African traditions, red symbolizes ancestral connection and power through blood, through blood connections."
"Wherever you see that hibiscus plant and these other indigenous uh West African plants, wherever they're growing, wherever you spy them, you're seeing Africa. It's the thumbprint."
"Good health is not only your birthright, but it is also a revolutionary act."
Q&A
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