Decolonizing our tongues & celebrating Juneteenth through food w/ Dr. Sunyatta Amen | #TheBlackTable
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Summary
Takeaways
- ❖Juneteenth, established as a national holiday, is part of a broader constellation of emancipation celebrations across the hemisphere.
- ❖Dr. Sunyatta Amen is a fifth-generation herbalist and naturopathic physician, whose family founded legendary health food stores like Black Pyramid and Tree of Life in Harlem.
- ❖Food served as a critical connection to home and a form of resistance for enslaved Africans, with herbal medicine knowledge being a key survival tool.
- ❖Red is a significant ancestral color in West African traditions, symbolizing connection and power through bloodlines, and is central to Juneteenth celebrations.
- ❖Hibiscus-based red drinks (bissap, sorrel, karkade, agua fresca de Jamaica) are found across Africa, the Caribbean, and Latin America, acting as a 'thumbprint' of African presence and resilience.
- ❖Watermelon, despite its negative stereotypes, is an important red food in Juneteenth celebrations, representing traditional eating practices.
- ❖Corporations have historically exploited the Black community's love for red foods, marketing 'red-flavored' items like Kool-Aid and sodas, and are now attempting to commercialize Juneteenth.
- ❖Reclaiming traditional, healthy recipes and supporting Black entrepreneurs are crucial steps to protect Juneteenth's cultural integrity and promote community health.
Insights
1Juneteenth's Historical Context and Federal Recognition
Juneteenth commemorates June 19, 1865, when Major General Gordon Granger issued General Order Number 3 in Galveston, Texas, declaring the end of enslavement. The first celebration occurred in 1866, becoming a Texas state holiday in 1980 and a federal holiday in 2021, a direct outcome of the 'great reckoning' following George Floyd's death.
On June 19th, 1865, Major General Gordon Granger... issued General Order Number 3 declaring that not only was the war over but that enslavement was over. And the following year the first Juneteenth celebration took place... in 1980... became a state holiday. But of course, we're talking about it now in the context of the United States and a federal holiday cuz in May 2020 George Floyd lost his life in Minnesota... the president of the United States on June 17th 2021 created a Juneteenth holiday.
2Food as a Revolutionary Act and Cultural Custodianship
Dr. Sunyatta Amen, a fifth-generation herbalist from a family of institution builders (Black Pyramid, Tree of Life), views food as a powerful tool for cultural connection and resistance. During the Maafa (transatlantic slave trade), knowledge of herbal medicine and connection to nature through food allowed enslaved people to maintain a link to their origins and exercise personal power, even in disordered ways.
I am a fifth-generation herbalist and the descendant of Maroons... I believe that that kind of puts me in like this really awkward, strange space of uh being a a cultural custodian... one of the ways that we could connect to home was the knowledge of herbal medicine... that's why the food is so important, because that's the way we connect internally with the way we relate to nature... It is something you can control as an individual. So, one of one of the ways that we take personal power... is the control of what we eat or do not eat. It is a revolutionary act for better or worse.
3The Ancestral Significance of Red Foods in the Diaspora
Red is a pivotal ancestral color in West African traditions, symbolizing connection, power, and bloodlines. This symbolism extends to Juneteenth celebrations through red foods and drinks like hibiscus (sorrel, karkade, bissap, agua fresca de Jamaica), which are found across the African diaspora. These plants, brought on slave ships, not only provided medicinal benefits (like cooling the body) but also served as a 'thumbprint' of African presence, capitalism, imperialism, enslavement, and resistance.
Red is a significant ancestral color for us. In many of our West African traditions, red symbolizes ancestral connection and power through blood through blood connections... hibiscus plants with a lot of other botanicals that come from Africa like ginger and the various spices. As you said, came with us on those ships, and they not only allowed us to continue our practices, they continued to heal us... It's a vasodilator. It opens the blood vessels and it releases heat from the body. It's a It's a coolant... wherever they're growing, wherever you spy them, you're seeing Africa. It's the thumbprint... of capitalism, imperialism, enslavement, and resistance.
4Corporate Exploitation of Black Food Traditions
Commercial enterprises recognized the Black community's deep cultural affinity for red foods and deliberately marketed 'red-flavored' candies, sodas (like Kool-Aid), and other products. This strategy exploits an intrinsic cultural connection, moving beyond traditional red foods into highly processed, often unhealthy, imitations. The recent 'Juneteenth ice cream dust-up' exemplifies corporations attempting to capitalize on the holiday without genuine cultural understanding or respect.
commercial enterprises like how we mentioned Coke uh and and other makers of soft drinks and hard drinks... really started to recognize, 'These black folks like this red drink and red foods. Let's see how we can color things with as much red as possible'... the red sodas, Big Red and and um Kool-Aid... we don't describe it as a flavor... It's red flavored... this Juneteenth ice cream dust up that occurred where our food start to get marketed back to us.
Bottom Line
The historical villainization of foods eaten with hands (like watermelon or collard greens) among Black communities was a tactic to impose 'continental table manners,' effectively declassifying traditional African and diasporic eating practices.
This reveals a subtle yet pervasive form of cultural colonization, where even dining etiquette was used to undermine and control Black identity. Understanding this helps deconstruct internalized shame around traditional practices.
Promote and celebrate communal, hand-to-mouth eating traditions as a conscious act of cultural reclamation and pride, encouraging a return to authentic, less formal dining experiences.
The naming of 'agua fresca de Jamaica' in Central America for hibiscus drinks points to Jamaica as a significant landing point for African botanicals and a hub for Maroon herbal medicine mastery.
This highlights the interconnectedness of African diasporic cultures and the role of specific Caribbean islands in preserving and disseminating traditional knowledge, often through resistance movements.
Develop educational programs or culinary tours that trace the botanical and cultural pathways of key African plants across the Americas, emphasizing their role in resistance and healing.
Opportunities
Diaspora-Connected Herbal Tea Line
Create a line of herbal teas and tonics that are explicitly named after significant Black historical figures and deities (e.g., Harriet's Gun T, Garvey's Ghost, Octavia Butler, Oshun's Kiss), using traditional African and diasporic ingredients known for their health benefits. This builds on Dr. Amen's existing model at Calabash Tea & Tonic.
Cultural Food Reclamation Workshops & Recipe Kits
Offer workshops and curated recipe kits focused on 'decolonizing our tongues' by teaching healthier, traditional versions of diasporic foods, especially those associated with Juneteenth. Emphasize fresh ingredients, proper seasoning, and cooking methods that preserve nutritional value, countering the commercialized, unhealthy versions.
Key Concepts
Decolonizing Our Tongues
This concept, championed by Dr. Sunyatta Amen, refers to the conscious act of reclaiming traditional, indigenous food practices and recipes that were either suppressed, demonized, or replaced by colonial diets and commercially driven, unhealthy alternatives. It emphasizes restoring natural health, cultural memory, and self-determination through food choices, viewing healthy eating as a revolutionary act of resistance against systemic oppression and exploitation.
Lessons
- Prioritize consuming authentic, healthy versions of traditional Juneteenth foods, such as hibiscus-based drinks (sorrel, karkade) and fresh watermelon, over commercially marketed 'red-flavored' or highly processed alternatives.
- Actively seek out and support Black-owned businesses and chefs who are creating and sharing traditional, culturally relevant recipes, contributing to the economic empowerment and cultural preservation within the community.
- Educate yourself and your family on the historical and cultural significance of the foods you consume during Juneteenth and other celebrations, understanding their roots in resistance and ancestral connection.
Quotes
"Everything you can do to a person, you can try to control a person, but one thing that you can't really control is food. People decide they're not going to eat, or people, uh, who feel put upon decide, 'I'm not eating' or 'I am eating my feelings' or 'I'm not going to eat cuz I feel a certain way.' It is something you can control as an individual. So, one of one of the ways that we take personal power... is the control of what we eat or do not eat. It is a revolutionary act for better or worse."
"Red is a significant ancestral color for us. In many of our West African traditions, red symbolizes ancestral connection and power through blood through blood connections."
"Good health is not only your birthright, but it is also a revolutionary act."
Q&A
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